You never know exactly when they'll appear. Maybe that's what makes desert wildflowers so magical.
Photo creditPhoto: Tom And Pat Leeson
Photo creditRobb Hirsch / Tandem Stock
Photo creditPhoto: Terry Donnelly
Photo creditPhoto: Nick Carver
Photo creditPhoto: Anton Foltin / Shutterstock
Some people swoon over the colors: cheery yellows, demure lilacs, sunburnt oranges. Others admire the forms: the swaying bells or showy sunbursts. But I've always been enchanted by the names of wildflowers—Johnny-jump-up, black-eyed Susan, fairy lantern, shooting star. On walks through the oak woodlands near my childhood home, my mother would point and identify, sharing names she'd learned from her own father. They felt like secret passwords, opening up the natural world.
Even then, I knew there was something special about wildflowers—the way they sprang from the earth with an indomitable will, thrusting color into the unlikeliest landscapes. "They're tough cookies," says Angelica Elliott, a program development manager with the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix. "Each flowering plant must be uniquely adapted to its habitat in order to survive."
In the deserts of the Southwest, this means flowers that flourish despite scorching days, frigid nights, and months without rain. "Most people think there's nothing out there," says Lili Singer, director of special projects and adult education at the Theodore Payne Foundation for Wild Flowers and Native Plants in Los Angeles. "Then suddenly the desert comes alive with spectacular carpets of color. An especially good year is something you remember your entire life."
My own unforgettable experience occurred in 2005, the year Death Valley National Park—the hottest and driest place in North America—burst into show stopping bloom. Spurred by incredible photos of the display, friends and I packed our camping gear and left Los Angeles at dusk. We spent the night in a gravel overflow lot, surrounded by other "bloomers" from across the country. The crowd was amped and giddy, like concert goers awaiting a once-in-a-lifetime show.
At dawn, the curtain of darkness was raised, revealing vivid fields that stretched in all directions. Jaws dropped. Shutter fingers twitched. We spent hours amid the blossoms, bending low to discover unexpected details: the scalloped petals of a pale gravel ghost—like the work of some pixie with pinking shears—and the five red dots that give the delicate desert fivespot its name. Each time I looked up, countless flowers waved back in greeting.
In a matter of weeks, the bloom had faded. It would be more than a decade before Death Valley put on another show as amazing as this one. That unpredictability is a big part of the appeal of "super blooms" (the colloquial term applied to these rare, stunning displays). It also testifies to wildflowers' patient survival strategy. Like demanding celebrities, they refuse to make an appearance until their exacting requirements are met.
"That's the amazing thing about annuals," Elliott says. "Their seeds can lie dormant in the soil for decades, just waiting for the right temperatures and rainfall." In a perfect season, germination kicks off in early autumn with a triggering rain and cool temperatures. After that, the plants require steady, ample winter rainfall to grow, followed by temperate spring weather to stimulate blossoming. Even if all the check boxes are ticked, a freak freeze, an untimely heat wave, high winds—even hungry herbivores—can cause a promising bloom to fizzle. "Instead of massive carpets, you might get little area rugs," Elliott says. "It's hard to predict."
Even in years when the desert fails to produce phenomenal displays, it always offers something exceptional to those willing to look closely. For some wildflower devotees, this can mean communing with a single plant. "One of the most beautiful things I've witnessed in the outdoors was the birth of an evening primrose at a campground in northern Arizona," says photographer Colleen Miniuk-Sperry, coauthor of Wild in Arizona: Photographing Arizona's Wildflowers. "I watched the first blossom unfurl over 45 minutes. It was the most profound experience."
In spring 2017, the stars again aligned in the desert, thanks to generous rainfall across much of the Southwest. My family and I traveled to Joshua Tree National Park, where the rains had coaxed abundant color from the jumbled landscape. Between the red rock formations, beavertail cacti flashed fuchsia bouquets next to barbed bristles—an arresting mix of "come hither" and "keep your distance." In the park's southern section, clusters of indigo bushes hung heavy with deep purple flowers, while spindly ocotillos twisted skyward toward fiery, hummingbird-beckoning blossoms.
Our route home led past the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve, where the golden fields were so brilliant, they could actually be seen from outer space. Pictures of the displays had gone viral on social media, drawing record crowds.
"We were completely inundated," state park interpreter Jean Rhyne says. "The lot was full by 9 a.m., but we still had thousands of people walking in, climbing fences, and trampling the flowers." Many of those visitors arrived with a single objective: snapping a selfie with the blooming backdrop. Once posted, the images inspired even more selfie seekers—a feedback loop that left many poppies loved to death.
Frenzied fans aren't the only threats. While California poppies have adapted to extreme temperatures and wildfires, longterm climate change could threaten their sensitive habitats.
For now, desert wildflowers are still very much with us, reminders that in a world short on optimism, wonders can occur. My love of wildflowers also remains, though these days I'm the parent passing down their secrets. Already, my young son knows to hold a glossy buttercup beneath my chin, looking for the telltale yellow reflection. "Mama, do you like butter?" he asks hopefully. I always do.
Best Bets for Wildflower Spotting
Wildflowers may be fickle about making appearances, but in most years the following parks are top contenders for sightings. Before you go, check the park's website or dedicated hotline for current conditions, which change day to day. For up-to-the-minute bloom reports submitted by aficionados, visit desertusa.com.
Higher elevations and snowmelt from the Santa Catalina Mountains bring cooler temps and a slightly later wildflower season to this park 17 miles north of Tucson. In late March and early April, look for a riot of purple lupines and golden Mexican poppies along Sutherland Trail.
An hour east of Phoenix, the Superstition Mountains provide a dramatic backdrop for orange globe mallows, red chuparosas, and yellow brittlebushes. These and other species are often spotted along Jacob's Crosscut Trail, mid-February to late March. In April and May, the park's giant saguaros unfurl their white bouquets at dusk.
In the Sonoran Desert 40 miles northwest of Tucson, Picacho Peak rises 1,500 feet above spring swaths of desert marigolds, pink penstemons, and white desert chicory. Calloway Trail is a good bet for flowers from February to April.
Saguaro lures botanists to Tucson with pink fairy dusters, violet-blue lupines, yellow brittle bushes, and other blooms during its flowering peak in mid- to late March. Hike Gould Mine Trail to catch strawberry hedgehogs, teddy bear chollas, and other flowering succulents in early April.
Fields of brilliant orange poppies mixed with cream cups, forget-me-nots, and owl's clover blanket this reserve in the Mojave Desert grasslands, 70 miles north of Los Angeles. Visitors can follow eight miles of trails; peak season runs mid-February to mid-May.
Two hours from San Diego and Palm Springs, California's largest state park erupts with fragrant dune evening primroses, golden desert dandelions, and purple phacelias. Borrego Palm Canyon Nature Trail is a likely spot for blooms during the early March peak.
Stunning ephemerals, including Bigelow's monkey flowers, Death Valley phacelias, and desert dandelions, draw attention in Death Valley. The season starts in February and can last well into May at higher elevations; check with the visitor center for ranger-led walks.
At the intersection of the Mojave and Colorado Deserts, Joshua Tree's varied elevation means blooms can last from March into May. Look for blue Canterbury bells, purple mats, and sand verbenas in washes, and spy Mojave asters and orange globe mallows on rocky hillsides. The park's namesake trees often sport creamy blossoms along Barker Dam Loop.
Spanning 1.5 million acres along the Nevada-Arizona border, Lake Mead puts on a spring show of blooming creosote bushes, chuckwalla's delights, desert golden poppies, and pink Mormon teas. From the visitor center outside Boulder City, the paved River Mountains Loop Trail winds through prime wildflower territory.
Cliffrose, Mariposa lily, and tidy fleabane are just a few of the species that appear March to May in this Mojave Desert oasis 20 minutes west of the Las Vegas Strip. Staffers lead free wildflower hikes along the park's 26 paths, including a creekside walk on Pine Creek Canyon Trail.
Fifty miles northeast of Vegas, this red rock terrain comes alive with desert marigolds, indigo bushes, and sacred daturas, as well as beavertail and hedgehog cacti in March and April. Spot wildflowers along park roads or walk Fire Wave Trail for vivid plants and equally colorful sandstone swirls.
March and April are peak months in this park north of Moab, when blazing stars, common paintbrushes, and yellow Hopi blanket flowers stand out against the sandstone. For blossoms and rock formations, follow Devils Garden Trail to the broad span of Landscape Arch.
Wildflower season at this out-of-the-way park 150 miles west of Moab starts in April, with some blooms lasting into October at higher elevations. Look for showy four-o'clocks, silvery townsendias, and yellow catspaws along Hickman Bridge Trail, which leads to a natural rock arch.
Ten miles north of St. George, Snow Canyon sees wildflowers peak between late March and early May. Markers on Hidden Pinyon Trail offer a self-guided overview of the native flora, including firecracker penstemons, purple desert sages, and Utah's state flower, the sego lily.
Zion surprises with its hanging gardens—lush alcoves created by water seeping from porous sandstone. Lower Emerald Pool Trail leads to one such grotto, where golden columbines, scarlet lobelias, and shooting stars often blossom in late spring and early summer.
For more springtime blooms in the West, explore these 13 gorgeous gardens.
This article was first published in Spring 2018. Some facts may have aged gracelessly. Please call ahead to verify information.