There's more to this Southwestern town than baseball and turquoise jewelry, where hip spots to eat, drink, and see art abound.
Old Town Scottsdale fancies itself an icon of the Old West, its architecture and signage evoking the days of wooden sidewalks and storefront hitching posts. Never mind that today’s sidewalks are concrete and most locals no longer get around by horse. These four pedestrian-friendly blocks are still an echo of a simpler time before greater Scottsdale grew into a 184-square-mile metropolis, almost four times the size of San Francisco.
Old Town is also, of course, a modern mall of art galleries favoring Southwestern and Native American motifs, jewelry stores, cafés, and restaurants that hum with casual luxury. It’s quiet here . . . until March, when baseball comes rolling in.
Nearby Scottsdale Stadium has been the spring training home of the San Francisco Giants since 1984, and for five weeks each year Old Town adopts a decidedly orange-and-black attitude. With 14 other major league teams playing in nine other stadiums around the Phoenix exurbs—all within about 40 miles of each other—a visitor to spring training can easily to schedule plenty of play around the unique attractions of Old Town.
In 1947, Cleveland Indians owner Bill Veeck, tired of Southern racism near the team’s Florida training camp and perhaps eager to be closer to his Arizona ranch, took his team to Tucson. He convinced Horace Stoneham, owner of the New York Giants, to start training his team in Phoenix that year, so his club would have somebody to play. The Chicago Cubs came to Mesa, Ariz., in 1952, and when the Baltimore Orioles showed up in Yuma in 1954, people started calling the four-team circuit the Cactus League.
The modern Scottsdale Stadium, built in 1992 and renovated in 2005, is, despite its size, one of the coziest arenas in the area, with fan-friendly touches such as the right field pavilion—a series of tiered patios featuring lounge chairs and couches—and a tree-shaded, blanket-ready outfield berm for lounging.
Two other ballparks close to Old Town are Phoenix Municipal Stadium, spring home to the Oakland A’s, and the newest yard in the desert, Salt River Fields at Talking Stick toward the east side of Scottsdale, where the Arizona Diamondbacks and Colorado Rockies play.
The watering holes
The place to start is Don & Charlie’s on East Camelback Road, just a 20-minute walk (or three-minute drive) north of Old Town. This perpetually packed steak and burger joint boasts what may be the biggest collection of baseball mementos outside of Cooperstown. Nearly every inch of wall enclosing its 8,000 square feet is hung with autographed jerseys, posters, and magazine covers; the signed baseball count alone tops 5,500. The place boasts 300 seats, but at spring training time reservations are a must.
Not quite everything in Scottsdale has to do with spring baseball. Just up the block from the Pony is the Italian Grotto, more sports bar than baseball museum. The pastas and meat on the menu may look tame—until you taste shockingly well-crafted fare such as the mussels Portofino or the calamari. Come for the baseball atmosphere, stay for the food.
Citizen Public House on East Fifth Avenue, a 10-minute stroll north of Old Town, offers an array of elegant dishes, from porcini-dusted filet mignon to a unique watermelon salad with grilled halloumi cheese. The resilience of the cheese allows it to be seared like a steak rather than melted across the perfectly toasted bun.
For sweets, it’s a short walk back to the Sugar Bowl, just a block from the Pony and the Grotto, for old-fashioned ice cream sodas, malts, and floats. The all-pink soda fountain looks much as it did when it opened in 1958.
Most of these places are within a mile—a 15- to 20-minute walk—of Scottsdale Stadium. You could enjoy several baseball-filled days in Old Town without once breaking out a set of car keys.
Photography courtesy Scottsdale Convention and Visitors Bureau
This story was first published in March 2012, but was updated in November 2013. Some facts may have aged gracelessly. Please call ahead to verify information.