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May/June 2006
From Portland to the Pacific

illustrated map of Highway 30 near Portland, Ore.  

By Bill Donahue

Just northwest of Portland along the Columbia River, there’s a road that stretches seaward through a green, beautiful land unsung by guidebooks. Highway 30, a hundred miles long, offers myriad views of the Columbia and a few flashes of sophisticated urban culture amid the ham-and-egg charms of rural Oregon. To make these stops, give yourself a full day.

1. SCAPPOOSE BAY KAYAKING Twenty miles north of Portland in Warren, take a paddling tour through wetlands as you watch for ospreys, river otters, and bald eagles. (877) 272-3353, www.scappoosebaykayaking.com.

2. ST. HELENS In Oregon’s oldest port town, the Klondike Mediterranean Bar & Grill serves delectable shish kebab in a circa 1910 four-story building that once housed a brothel. (503) 397-4297.

3. CLATSKANIE The highly acclaimed short story writer Raymond Carver (1938–1988) was born here. The son of a mill worker, he wrote about the hard luck of everyday people. Find a plaque honoring him at 161 North Nehalem Street. www.clatskanie.com/carver.htm.

4. SHOOTING STAR LAVENDER Farm Some 4,000 lavender plants, soft and fragrant, grow here. (503) 728-4236, www.shootingstarlavender.com.

5. WESTPORT Catch the Wahkiakum County Ferry (www.cwcog.org/ferry.html) and gaze northeast toward Mount St. Helens as the boat makes its 12-minute trip to Puget Island. Then take a four-mile pastoral drive into the village of Cathlamet, Wash., and savor high tea at the Bradley House Inn (360-795-3030).

6. ASTORIA COLUMN At the terminus of the Columbia, register the river’s full force by climbing the 125-foot-high column and watching the wide flow crash into the sea. Then roll into Astoria for a drink by the port.

 


Illustration by Michael Klein

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This article was first published in May 2006. Some facts
may have aged gracelessly. Please call ahead to verify information.


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