All Lit Up:
San Francisco's
Embarcadero

By Lynn Ferrin

Ever since that brooding, earthquake-damaged Embarcadero Freeway was demolished, San Franciscans have been relishing the fabulous rebirth of their downtown waterfront. Legions of joggers, strollers, bikers, 'boarders and 'bladers ply the long Promenade at the edge of the Bay, and gorgeous views of water and cityfront have opened up. This holiday season is a fine time to weekend here. You can explore the historic downtown shoreline, revel in the views, shop for holiday presents, study public art, dine very well, go fishing from the city pier, and even ice skate.

In one of the most impressive city decorations anywhere, the four grand skyscrapers of the Embarcadero Center are outlined with 17,000 light bulbs. (They're switched on in November, amid a big free block party in Justin Herman Plaza. The skating rink here is open November through January.)

The Embarcadero at the foot of Market Street is eminently accessible. You can arrive at Embarcadero Station by BART and Muni underground; at the foot of California Street by cable car; at the Ferry Building by Muni bus or by boat from Sausalito, Larkspur, Vallejo and so on. And you can take Amtrak to its newly refurbished Ferry Building terminal from, say, Sacramento, Reno, or even Chicago. If you must drive, parking is free nights and weekends at the Embarcadero Center with validation.

Best place to begin your visit is San Francisco's front door, the venerable Ferry Building, built in 1898, and warmly fioodlit at night. It was modeled after the Giralda Tower in Seville's cathedral, and withstood the 1906 fire and earthquake. On its water side is broad Ferry Plaza East, swept by sea breezes and nice for bench-sitting (perhaps with takeout breakfast), fishing, and, at night, the best views of the holiday lights and the welcoming neon sign, "Port of San Francisco."

In front of the Ferry Building, an upscale Farmer's Market thrives on Saturdays from 8 to 1:30. Here you'll find purveyors of olive bread, homemade red pepper ravioli, mauve roses. Usually a couple of chichi restaurants - say, Lulu's or Hayes Street Grill - dish out specialties for brunch.

Embarcadero Center is a massive commercial complex of four skyscrapers, between Battery and the Embarcadero, with EC4 closest to the waterfront. Some 140 shops and restaurants occupy the lower fioors, connected by a network of stairways, gardens, fountains, elevated walks, and sculpture - all aglitter with holiday decor, such as the "angel lights" lining the upper walkway. To locate such emporiums as The Nature Company, Liz Claiborne, Waldenbooks, or The Gap, consult the handy fioor plans on each level. Youths hang out in virtual reality at Cybermind. During December, EC stores are open weeknights 'til 8 p.m. New is a comfortable five-screen cinema in Embarcadero One.

The Jewish Museum San Francisco, 121 Steuart Street, is open Sun.-Thurs.

On the waterfront: Spend some time savoring the sea air and Bay views by striding along the Embarcadero. South from the Ferry Building, the Promenade follows close along the water almost to the Bay Bridge. Across the street, construction still rumbles, but eventually Muni streetcars will run all the way around to King and 4th. The tracks and palm trees are already in place in "Instant Santa Barbara" from Folsom to King. Pass beneath the Bridge and continue on past Red's Java House toward the South Beach Yacht Harbor. Berthed at Pier 32, foot of Brannan Street, you'll find the WW2 liberty ship Jeremiah O'Brien, back from her epic voyage to the beaches of Normandy. Open to the public 9 to 3 weekdays, to 4 weekends. Phone 441-3101.