
How to
safely go where no one has gone before
By Brad
Herzog
Access
and affordability have created an array of travel options, allowing
Average Joe and Ordinary Jane to enjoy an African safari, an ecotour
of the Amazon, or a bike trip through Baja. But its still
a hazardous world.
It
used to be that vacation was synonymous with relaxation.
Time off meant lazing on the beach in Nassau, driving down the Pacific
Coast Highway, perhaps visiting the Magic Kingdom. Before the world
became a global village, it seemed that adventure travelan
off-the-beaten-path, into-the-wilds journeywas limited to
wealthy or weathered eccentrics. But times have changed. Access
and affordability have created an array of options, allowing Average
Joe and Ordinary Jane to enjoy an African safari, an ecotour of
the Amazon, or a bike trip through Baja.
But despite
the increased ease of adventure travel, there is still an inherent
risk in traveling to exotic places. It sort of goes with the
territory, says Jerry Mallett, president of the Adventure
Travel Society. Thats part of the reason why some people
gothe adrenaline rush. I used to have a buddy who ran a tour
out of Belize and into Guatemala. When he loaded his people up,
hed tell them, Well be robbed by a group of guerrillas
today. How much money would you like to spend?
While the action
may be part of the attraction, several recent, widely publicized
incidents show how risk can sometimes evolve into terrifying danger.
In March, a group of 31 tourists visited Ugandas Bwindi National
Park to observe endangered mountain gorillas. They were overrun
by a band of Rwandan Hutu rebels hoping to draw attention to U.S.
and British support of the Tutsi government. Eight of the touriststwo
Americans, two Britons, and four New Zealanderswere eventually
killed.
Three weeks
later, in Colombia, four American bird-watchers were taken captive
by guerrilla members of the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia.
One escaped after 10 days; the other three were released after a
month. They were lucky: Only four months earlier, in Yemen, four
kidnapped tourists were killed when Yemenite security forces stormed
the terrorists stronghold.
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Safe
Travel Tips
Do:
Keep your appearance conservative and understated. Leave
the pearls and the orange Polartech jacket at home.
Make
multiple copies of your passport and other official
documents. Leave some with friends or family at home;
distribute the rest throughout your luggage.
Listen
to your guides. If they tell you to drink to stave off
dehydration, drink. If they tell you to cover your curvy
parts, cover
Dont:
Arrive in a strange destination at night or without
proper transportation from the airport.
Carry
around a huge wad of cash. Instead, bring travelers
checks and keep them in a money belt under your clothing.
Carry
your camera in an obvious camera bag. Avoid taking pictures
of government buildings or military sites. Photographing
locals without their permission also is a no-no.
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Although crime
and civil strife are often to blame when adventure travel turns
terrifying, Mother Nature (a.k.a. Mommy Dearest) also threatens
travelers. On the slopes of Mount Washington, in New Hampshire,
87 people have lost their lives to hypothermia, avalanches, and
other mishaps in the past 50 years. Many of these deaths were preventable.
Yet unwitting adventurers still set out to climb the mountain with
only a sweater and a canteen by way of preparation.
Certainly these
incidents are far removed from the experiences of the vast majority
of adventure travelers. But they serve as a sobering reminder: When
planning any outing into the outback, safety precautions should
be paramount.
Do Your Homework
Uprisings and terrorist attacks may seem unpredictable, but warning
signs do exist. For instance, Yemen had a track record of violence
long before the terrorist incident, with more than 100 kidnappings
in the past decade alone.
Knowing such
recent history is vital to an informed travel decision, as is being
familiar with the cities youll be visiting, the international
airports youll be usingeven the regions surrounding
your destination country. Few sources are more useful for this sort
of research than the U.S.
State Department (202-647-5225), which provides updated travel
warnings about, for instance, protests in Jamaica or volcanic activity
in Cameroon. They also cover entry requirements, religious and political
extremists, areas of instability, road safety, and medical facilities
for hundreds of destinations.
Check Up
On Health
While youre brushing up on sociopolitics, keep in mind that
cholera and typhoid fever have no political agendaand their
prevention requires more than just avoiding the water. The Centers
for Disease Control and Preventions Web
site contains health information by region and country, including
notices of outbreaks, risks, and recommended vaccines and precautions.
Similar information is available on their 24-hour travelers
hotline (888-232-3228).
Another sound
precaution is to sign up for free membership in the International
Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (716-754-4883).
Benefits include access to a directory of qualified physicians in
more than 125 countries, a world immunization chart, and information
on malaria, schistosomiasis, and Chagas disease. If youll
be heading into the wilds, also visit www.gorp.com/gorp/health/main.htm,
an online clearinghouse for outdoor safety informationfrom
identifying toxic plants and treating snakebite to avoiding Lyme
disease and altitude sickness.
Get Cultural
In addition to understanding political strife and natural dangers,
visitors should be informed about local customs, particularly regarding
appearance. Dont expect rules and regulations from home to
apply abroad, and remember that cultural values may vary widely,
even within a single country. As Sergio Ballivian, president of
Explore Bolivia, explains, In Bolivia, its not a good
thing for women to walk around in shorts in the highlands, but its
totally acceptable in the lowlands. Similarly, in India, public
displays of affection are perfectly acceptable in large cities,
but not in the smaller villages.
Guidebooks can
be excellent resources for safety and cultural considerations. For
instance, Lonely Planet books will tell you that unrelated men and
women are not expected to sit beside each other on public transportation
in Turkey, that you should never touch another person with your
feet in India, and that you should beware of thieves masquerading
as hitchhikers in Morocco.
Start a Conversation
Despite the abundance of electronic and print information, perhaps
the bestand most convincingeducation comes from fellow
travelers. A book may explain that its cold in the Tunisian
desert after sunset, but hearing a firsthand account of a shivering,
sleepless night is what will convince you to pack your long underwear.
Try to
talk to people who have been to your destination recentlynot
20 years ago, Ballivian says. Find out what areas they
did or didnt consider safe and how they got around the place.
Again, the Web is an easy place to locate such experts. On Lonely
Planets Thorn Tree, you can post questions for fellow
travelers and join in discussions. If you are traveling independently,
you also can locate possible travel partners in the Traveling Companions
section. Another prime meeting spot for travelers is the Find a
Travel Partner section on the Rough Guides Web
site. Of course, be aware of the risks of meeting people online,
but dont overlook the potential educational advantages, either.
Join the
Group
Although it doesnt replace pretrip research, traveling with
a tour company is a great way to get firsthand expertise and the
safety of traveling in numbers. That is, if you go with reputable,
well-established operators. Before you sign on, ask a few questions.
How long have they been operating? What is their safety record?
Do they use local guides or do they bring in outside leaders who
may be experts on white-water rafting but have limited knowledge
of regional problems?
Most important,
talk with someone who has used the company before. Ask the
company for the names of three people, says Marybeth Bond,
director of public relations for Overseas Adventure Travel. If
they cant give them to you, theyre not a reputable operator.
And dont go with anyone who hasnt run your particular
trip for at least a year. You dont want to be on the first
one. Theyre still working out the problems, and they dont
know where the dangerous areas are.
Of course, sometimes
there is an attraction to being first. Just be certain the company
has all of their emergency and medical systems in place. If
I were going on a trip that a company had never run before, Id
make sure that the people leading it have been in the area many
times, says Dan Braun, part owner of Southern Yosemite Mountain
Guides. So much of guiding is about confidence. You can have
all the skills in the world, but confidence plays into leadership.
Good tour guides are essential to your safety. Find out their qualifications,
how many years theyve worked in the region in question, and
the extent of their local knowledge.
Prospective
travelers should also have a complete understanding of the companys
terms and conditions. Find out what is and isnt provided regarding
lodging, guides, evacuationsanything integral to your safety
and peace of mind. If the company is providing gear, for instance,
ask how old it is, how they maintain it, and if it can be exchanged
should it fit improperly.
You may feel
nitpicky or overly cautious, but in the end, youll set out
on your adventure knowing everything you can about your health and
safety. Along the road less traveled, that can make all the difference.
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A Word
From the Weiss
Richard Weiss is the president of Mountain Travel-Sobek
in El Cerrito, California. His company, which leads trips
everywhere from Antarctica to Everest Base Camp, has been
in the adventure travel business for 30 years. VIA recently
spoke with Weiss about his thoughts on the subject.
VIA:
Whats the attraction of adventure travel?
Weiss:
People have become more interconnected, having cell phones
in their cars and on their hips, E-mail in airports. Peoples
downtime has become so rare that when they can get away there
is this urge to go where they will be out of touch, where
they will have this experience that is totally other.
VIA:
What are the Golden Rules of safe adventure travel?
Weiss:
First, choose your trips wisely. One reason the Ugandan tragedy
made the news it did is because these things happen so infrequently.
If you go with companies that have established histories and
systems in place, almost 100 percent of the time youll
be safe.
VIA:
Anything else?
Weiss:
One way people get in harms way is from disease. If
you call sensible resources like the Centers for Disease Control
in Atlanta, you can avoid areas of serious health problems.
And you dont have to cancel trips unnecessarily. We
had people during the Ebola virus outbreak [in Zaire in 1995],
for example, canceling trips to Morocco. Its like saying
there are problems with the New York City water system so
youre not going to Denver.
VIA:
Whats the advantage of taking an adventure trip with
a group, rather than mapping it out for yourself?
Weiss:
Going with a company like ours is not for everybody. There
are people who are very competent in creating their own itinerary,
in getting their own gear together, and in mapping out a route.
Those people should do that.
Weve
been in the business for 30 years and were blessed with
an extraordinary collection of leaders. These leaders bring
to the customer a level of understanding, a level of cultural
contact, of safety, which is very difficult to get by oneself.
VIA:
Where will the hot adventure travel trips be in five years?
Weiss:
When I look back five years, I think of the places that were
completely dead, like Peru, which was recovering from the
Shining Path. Now Peru is booming.
So, whats
going to be hot? I see the places that have been remote becoming
more familiar, so therell be more people going to Nepal
but staying closer to Kathmandu. I see that outer-edge group,
which is constantly looking for the new places, going deeper
maybe into unexplored South America or deeper into the desert
in West Africa.
VIA:
Why do people knowingly dance with danger?
Weiss:
I heard [Everest director of photography] David Breashears
speak last night. He was talking about the 1996 tragedy on
Everest and the reason his IMAX film crew went back to do
the filming, even though they were depressed after eight people
died. He said something I think is a metaphor for why a lot
of people do this type of travel: You dont go to the
mountain to meet death; you go to the mountain to affirm life.
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