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Basqueing
in
IDAHO
They
came to herd sheep and in the process left a lasting imprint on
the Gem State.
By
Ted Katauskas
DURING
THE DECADES following the turn of the century, as Europe dealt with
the aftermath of World War I and the rise of fascism, a wave of
Basque immigrants left a 20-mile stretch of Spanish coastline along
the Bay of Biscay for Idaho's Wood River Valley. At the time, the
valley was second only to Sydney, Australia, in lamb meat and wool
production. In Idaho, the new arrivals found work as sheepherders,
one of the few occupations in which Euskara, their ancient and all-but-incomprehensible
tongue, wasn't a barrier. With the company of a burro and maybe
a sheepdog, Basque herders led their flocks high into the mountains
each spring. They stayed until the winter snows forced them to take
refuge again in the Basque-owned boardinghouses in downtown Boise.
Today,
the Wood River Valley's ski resorts are far more profitable than
its sheep ranches, and the few herders who remain come mostly
from Argentina and speak Spanish, not Basque.
Yet the image
of the lonely Basque sheepherder endures and is now celebrated
every autumn in the Sun Valley area with the Trailing of the Sheep
Festival. This year, the festival begins on October 8 with an
evening of storytelling at the Ketchum Community Library led by
John Peavey, the patriarch of the Flat Top Sheep Company, one
of the region's oldest sheep ranches. The following day, the festival
moves to the nearby mountain town of Hailey, the site of the Sheep
Folklife Fair. Here, visitors will find sheep camps to explore
and demonstrations in shearing, sheepdog herding, and wool-spinning,
as well as Basque folk music and dancing and traditional Basque
games like stone-lifting and wood-chopping. For dinner, enjoy
a Basque-style lamb feast.
At high noon
on October 10, herders from the Flat Top Sheep Company and Faulkner
Land & Livestock will move their flocks from the mountains
down the middle of Main Street in Ketchum for the Trailing of
the Sheep Parade. Visitors are invited to walk with, or "trail,"
the sheep as they're driven through town on their way to lowland
desert pastures for the winter. The festival concludes with a
guided hike along Julio's Trail, named for a Basque sheepherder
who carved his name on aspen trees on the edge of town.
To
discover more about the state's Basque heritage, head to Boise.
Although the last of the city's Basque boardinghouses closed in
the late '60s, it is still home to the largest Basque community
in North America. Plan on spending the morning on downtown Boise's
Basque Block, along Grove Street. Begin at the Basque Museum and
Cultural Center, the country's only Basque museum, which shares
the block with a Basque social club, a fully restored Basque boardinghouse,
a fronton(a Basque racquet club where a racquetball-like
sport called pala is played), and a Basque bar and restaurant.
Tour the
Uberuaga boardinghouse with museum executive director Patty Miller
and examine the treasures of the museum's exhibit halla
sheep camp wagon once used for wool-gathering, Basque musical
instruments, and a scale model of the General Assembly building
in Guernica, the Basque city immortalized by Picasso's masterwork.
Then have lunch at the Bar Gernikatry the double solomo(marinated
pork loin) or, on Saturday, the house specialty, beef tongueand
chat with owner Dan Ansotegui, a descendant of Basque sheepherders.
Ansotegui will tell you stories and show off pictures of his grandfather,
David Inchausti, on the sheep ranch where he worked, and of his
other grandfather, Santiago Ansotegui, dancing while Dan's father,
Domingo, plays the accordion.
And
if you're interested in exploring more Basque sites along the scenic
back roads between Boise and Sun Valley, pick up a copy of Nancy
Zubiri's A Travel Guide to Basque Americafrom the museum
gift shop. In the process, you might be tempted buy a souvenir or
two, like a "Proud to Be Basque" license-plate holder,
or maybe a sheep-shaped refrigerator magnet that sayswhat
else?"Baa-aaa-sque is beautiful!"
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Photos by Ted Katauskas and Steve Bly
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This article was first published in September 1999. Some facts
may have aged gracelessly. Please call ahead to verify information.
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