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Treasure
Hunt
Throughout the West,
you'll find cluttered little
museums where the exhibits
are for sale. They're called
antique shops.
By Shirley Streshinsky
a
ntique shops are America's attics, spilling over with junk and treasures culled from garage sales
and estate sales, from flea markets and derelict houses being razed in faraway cities, and from
auctions everywhere from Chico to the Internet. They are places where history and memory collide,
where prizes hide in odd corners. A slow and careful browse might turn up a cigar box filled
with World War II medals, an American Flyer sled, a beautiful silver cigarette case with the
cryptic inscription: "Never forget . . . T.C.G. March 21, 1925." Old stories, old photos, old
furniture. Old, old, old up to the rafters, heavily scented with nostalgia, background music by
Benny Goodman. Travelers who revel in exploring America's back roads and the towns and villages along
the way tend to know the basic steps to the Antiques Crawl. For some of these backcountry buffs,
finding great deals on valuable antiques is the objective; the rest of us simply take pleasure in
wandering through the repositories of the past.
Before setting out to explore Sonora and Jamestown in California's Gold Country and the historic
neighborhood of Multnomah Village in Portland, Ore., as well as the nearby pioneer town of
Aurora, I enlisted the aid of two veteran antique dealersJon Pedersen in California and
Kimberly Stimac Booker in Oregon. They taught me how to "read" a shop, what to look for and what
to look out for, and generally how to make antiques outings a happy dance for the whole family.
My mission was to explore only those shops that dealers call "true to the business." That meant
no places cluttered with low-end garage sale leftovers, scented soaps, or modern collectibles like
Beanie Babies. (Antique shops for purists are increasingly hard to find, dealers say.) The wares
didn't necessarily have to be 100 years old (the official benchmark), but they did need to have
some redeeming historic value.
Pedersen, who runs his business from his hometown of Oakdale, Calif., regularly scours Gold
Country towns in search of antiques. One recent morning he stood with me on the wooden sidewalk at
one end of Jamestown's classic High Noon Main Street to go over the lesson plan: I would step inside
each shop, take a quick look around, and study how it was arranged. As we entered the Emporium, a
two-story mercantile building erected in 1897, Pedersen said, "There is plenty of space and a little
bit of everything but nicely organized." Gradually, my eyes adjusted, and the floor plan came into focus:
old books and 1950s memorabilia on one side of the mezzanine, period toys in a back corner,
oak furniture on the main floor, antique silver in glass cases near the front. Once I understood the
layout, the visual bombardment ceased. Now I could plot a sensible path through what had seemed an
overwhelming thicket, avoiding the Depression glass (which depressed me) and heading for the old
silver (which did not). We found the proprietor, Mallory Barendregt, a third-generation Jamestownian,
warming herself at a Round Oak stove, ready to discuss the antiques, their provenance, and
value. The proprietor and the dealer launched into a discussion of antique silverPedersen's
specialty. Until that moment, I had no idea how much I did not know about antiques.
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A N T I Q U I N G 1 0 1
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Is it a fake? Is it a treasure? What's a fair price? Antiques can be intimidating. But there
are simple steps you can take to feel more confident when you walk into a shop.
READ. The list of books, magazines, and Web sites devoted to antiques is endless, and
when you get around to collecting something specific, like mission furniture or Amish quilts,
you will find hundreds of titles just for you. Until then, Antiquing for Dummies is a terrific
primer, with useful advice on how to buy old glass (check for oil that might make the glass appear
artificially brilliant) and how to test the age of a chest by sniffing the drawers: "Reproductions
smell of lacquer or fresh wood." A price guide is also helpful. Guides like Kovels', Warman's, and
Schroeder's are crammed with ballpark prices on everything from Wedgwood teacups to Stickley
chairs.
SHOP 'TIL YOU DROP. In a cluttered shop, Jon Pedersen spots a nondescript gadget. He
whips out a magnifying glass and scans the base for a marking. Bingo. It's a Will & Finck lemon
juicer (circa 1880), priced at $125. Ridiculous? Sure. Because it's so cheap. These exquisite
juicers go for up to $1,200 in San Francisco. How did Pedersen acquire his
expertise? Shopping.
PATRONIZE SINGLE-OWNER SHOPS. Enormous antique collectives are seductive. But single-owner
shops are usually a better place to learn aboutand purchaseantiques because the person
at the counter is probably the same person who acquired the goods and knows all the
stories. And with antiques, the stories are everything.
DON'T BE SHY. Talk to the dealers. They're in the business because they love (and
know) antiques.
GET JEWELS APPRAISED. When you buy antique jewelry, ask if the piece has been appraised
by a gemologist. The right answer: Yes. Then get it in writing.
BARGAIN. Dealers expect you tobut they won't urge you to. Try offering 20 percent
below the marked price, but be prepared to accept a smaller reduction. Bargaining probably won't work
when the price tag says "firm" or "net." And you may not get a discount on pieces that are marked
less than $25 to begin with.
BRING CASH. There is sometimes a discount attached if you pay cash. (But you'll have to
ask for it.)
DELIVERY IS A BARGAINING CHIP. Ask for free delivery of large items. If you can cart them
away yourself, you should request a discount.
GET IT IN WRITING. A cash-register receipt won't do. Be sure the dealer writes down the date
and a description of every item you purchase, including age and condition.
KEEP YOUR RECEIPTS. If you later learn that an item was misrepresented by the dealer, you may
be eligible for a refund. Jennifer Reese
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To start with, anyone who really wants to get serious about antiques needs to hit the
books. "Cutting-Edge Glass Info Helps Beginners Tell a Tiffany from a Target," an article in a
recent issue of Antique Journal, advises those interested in collecting glass to "read, read, read"
to learn all about its history, the ways in which it is manufactured, and its hundreds of
styles. You need to seek out reference books, search the Web, look into newsletters, and find
collectors' clubs. The resources are endless, and some of the best are the people behind the antique
shop counters. Talk to them.
When making a substantial purchase that requires authentication, Pedersen says he prefers
one-owner shops over antique malls. Having the owner on the spot also expedites the answer to
that all-important question: "Is this a firm price?" Shop owners expect to be asked, and often the
reply is "What did you have in mind?" Which means it is a good idea to have something in mind,
perhaps 20 to 25 percent below the asking price, on the theory that many shops are willing to
give you at least a 10 percent reduction. But bargaining should be polite. None of this "I'll give
you two bucks; take it or leave it."
Temptation is part of the pleasure of antiquing. In a glass case, I came upon eight
sterling-silver knives by the early-20th-century Danish designer Georg Jensen; the price was
$275. Instantly (and unreasonably, since I have absolutely no need for more silver), I coveted
them. Pedersen told me I could probably pick up more of the pieces on eBay or other Web sites that
specialize in silver. I managed to resist, though later I did check eBay and found an assortment of
Jensen silver.
Online auctions have created a groundswell of interest in antiques. So has the Antiques Roadshow
on PBS, though according to the dealers I asked, the program has also created false hopes in people
with family heirlooms to sell. Expecting $20,000 (because an item looks like something they have
seen on the show), they assume any lower offer means the dealer is out to cheat them.
The next shop we visited was a collective, a large space shared by some 20 dealers, each with
a separate niche and with someone else minding the store. Pedersen reached for a well-worn cowhide
doctor's bag, took a quick look, and put it down, commenting, "The best ones are made of
walrus." Then he drew my attention to a case filled with Nazi paraphernaliapopular and
expensive to collect. "This is a reproduction," Pedersen said, pointing to a medal. "That would be
OK if it were clearly marked, but it isn't." The world of antiques, he added, sighing, is full of
reproductions and fakes. Buyers must either educate themselves or work with dealers whom they know
they can trust.
At the Daisy Tree II, housed in a defunct gas station, I was still making my initial visual
sweep, trying to read the place, when Pedersen came across a curious black tooled-leather box,
roughly 8 inches square and lined in red satin. It had a tiny silver box attached to the top and
a cartouche engraved with the name Leslie.
"It's for storing collars," Pedersen explained, "from the days when men wore removable collars on
their shirts. The little silver box on top is for the collar button." Closer inspection turned up
an 1890 patent mark, which prompted a lively discussion of the history of men's shirts. Then we
tried to guess the time period when Leslie was a popular man's name. Pedersen said he counted the box
a treasure because of its emotional value, because it was nicer than the one he already had, and,
at $50, it was a good buy. I counted it a treasure for the spontaneous history lesson it
provoked.
Antique shops often have a relaxed attitude about hours: "Always Open Unless We're Closed." In
a window display at the Jimtown Trading Co. ("Attempted Hours 11 a.m. to 4 p.m."), I came upon
some dishes exactly like the ones I had washed interminably as I was growing up in the
Midwest. I could almost feel them, soap-slippery in my hands. The Autumn Leaf pattern dishes, produced
for the Jewel Tea Company by Hall China in East Liverpool, Ohio, were given away as premiums in the
1930s. Now, the casserole is $75; a soufflé dish, $60. Lesson learned: One generation's cheap and
ugly is the next generation's collectible.
"There isn't anything you can imagine that isn't being collected," said Sheryl Breaux at Antiques
Etcetera, on South Washington Street in Sonora. While Jamestown's Main Street is dominated by
antique shops, nearby Sonora is the kind of robust, living antique that has evolved to embrace
smoothies, lattes, art galleries, contemporary theater, and a newly renovated bowling alley. "Darning
eggs, green dishes, duck decoys, tea bags, dolls, buttons," Breaux said. "Some people like
pigs. Me, I love sweaters from the 1930s and anything with a little house on it. I don't know
whyit just pulls at my heart." That day, "Mood Indigo" was the background music in the spacious
shop packed with, among a thousand other things, old sheet music ("Toolie Oolie Doolie" and "The
Ballad of Davy Crockett") and vintage clothing, much sought after by theater companies and
photographers. "Nostalgia," Breaux said, "is what makes this business work."
Kimberly Booker is a sixth-generation Oregonian and a third-generation antiques
dealer. For several years, she had a shop in historic Multnomah Village, originally a trading
post and now a funky neighborhood about 20 minutes from Portland's downtown. On a two-block
stretch of SW Capitol, Multnomah Village has half a dozen antique shops, several art galleries,
gift stores, a superb independent bookstore called Annie Bloom's, and candy and coffee shops to
offer respite from the Antiques Crawl.
Booker, like Pedersen, recommends buying from owner-operated stores, preferably ones with a shelf
of reference books, which suggests that the owners do their homework before authenticating and pricing
an item. "A dealer's knowledge," Booker said, "is her stock in trade." A buyer has every right to
ask for chapter and verse, she added. "And make sure the sales slip has the same description the
owner has given you verbally."
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Great Antiquing Towns
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You'll find wonderful antique stores throughout the West, from funky malls in
little towns like Healdsburg to breathtaking
shops in Seattle and Los
Angeles. Amador County in California's Sierra foothills is famous for its
antiques. Visit Amador City for quilts and tools. Ornate French chairs more your
style? Head to San Francisco's Sacramento and
Jackson streets. Petaluma's main drag
is lined with shops selling art deco and mission furniture, and just north, in
Sebastopol, shops are strung along the Gravenstein Highway.
Heading south? Consider making stops in Morro
Bay, Cayucos, and
Paso Robles.
In Oregon, check out Seaside and
Astoria. But don't go looking for an
armoire: The tourists these places cater to like treasures that fit in a
suitcase. Medford has a couple of worthwhile
shops, and in The
Dalles and Hood River
you'll find dealers selling old Americana.
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Booker marched us into a shop and, out of earshot of the owner, pointed out that, though the
neat little tags affixed to each item seemed to give authentic information, she had
reservations. She waded through narrow aisles littered with the detritus of life in the closing
decades of the 20th century to indicate a miniature bottle labeled "Phoenician glass, 800
B.C.-1250, $225." "Whenever you find something of great value in a setting that is a mix of
age and quality," she warned, "I would be cautious."
At J.K. Hill'sa shop filled with silver and chinaJim Hill logged on to an Internet
auction to show us how he makes many of his sales these days. When Booker asked, "Anything new
and exciting?" he brought out a few of the 18 German porcelain place card holders he had just
acquired from an estate sale in Vancouver. "They probably date only to the 1920s or '30s,"
Hill told us, "but look, this is what is such fun." On the backs of the place card holders, an
unnamed hostess had jotted remarks about her guests: "Artdirty hat," one said; and
another, "Lolahusbands."
Hill's sense of fun reminded me that antiquing is more than the search for a good buy. Exploring
historic places and the charming towns where many great shops are found is a large part of the
pleasure. That is what sent me to Aurora, about an hour south of Portland. Founded as a German
Christian communal colony in 1856, Aurora is a National Historic District and bills itself as the
antiques capital of Oregon. Most of its shops are collectives that, with their vast array of
antiques, appealed to my "just looking, thanks" approach. Accompanying me that rainy Sunday were
four members of the Schultheis family from Tigard, Ore.; they turned my antiques expedition into a
multigenerational family excursion.
"Cool!" 11-year-old Nicholas Schultheis murmured as he ran his fingers over the runners of a
racer's toboggan, circa 1900. We came upon the toboggan in a corner of the rambling Main Street
Mercantile, big enough to accommodate 51 dealers. Our party of five wandered off in all
directions, then came together in varying configurations. From a perch on the balcony, I could see
Nicky and his dad engrossed in a collection of old spurs, Nicky and his mom discussing the price
of a cap gun, Nicky and his grandmother checking out a row of school desks from the 1940s. He
joined me to examine a box of marbles, fingering the aggies and peewees that occupied generations of
kids before computer games.
Between rain showers, we dashed up the street to what had once been the town mortuary but is
now Impressions of Aurora, an antique store presided over by Earl Leggett, who looks like Santa
Claus in mufti. To see antiques original to the site, we signed on for a tour of the Old Aurora
Colony Museum, where we learned how 600 families had managed to produce everything they needed
to survive in the wilderness of mid-19th century Oregon. We strolled the spacious streets those
pioneers had plotted, then stopped to visit the William Fry House (1874), now a shop called Time
After Time, three generations of us dancing in and out of time warps, happily practicing the
Antiques Crawl.
If You're Going . . .
For information on Jamestown, Sonora, and the California Gold Country, pick up AAA's Northern
California/Nevada TourBook. Or contact the Tuolumne County Visitors Bureau,
(800) 446-1333;
www.thegreatunfenced.com. For more information about Multnomah Village and Aurora, pick up a
copy of AAA's Oregon/Washington TourBook.
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