Consensus builder: Bipartisan Cafe’s marionberry pie.
After flirting with cupcakes—fussy, frilly, flamboyant cupcakes—dessert devotees are rediscovering real fruit and shifting their affections back to classic pies. Handmade pies featuring locally grown produce are being raised to new heights at shops around the West. Here are some of the best.
- In Sumner, Wash., the world’s Rhubarb Pie Capital, Berryland Café fashions sweet-tart, cinnamon-scented pies from the brilliant Crimson variety of rhubarb. 1101 Main St., (253) 863-4567, berrylandcafe.com.
- Politics may hold sway at Portland’s Bipartisan Cafe, but reds and blues all agree on the marionberry pie, filled with Oregon’s wildly popular cross of the Chehalem blackberry and olallieberry. 7901 SE Stark St., (503) 253-1051, bipartisancafe.com.
- At the Bunnery Bakery & Restaurant in Jackson, Wyo., a trio of colorful berries—blueberries, raspberries, and strawberries—yields layers of fruit flavor in the rustic shop’s Very Berry Pie. 130 N. Cache St., (307) 733-5474, bunnery.com.
- Tart huckleberries nuzzle ripe stone fruit in the intense huckleberry-peach pie at LouLa’s Cafe in Whitefish, Mont. A sprinkling of superfine sugar adds crackle to the crust. 300 Second St. E., (406) 862-5614, whitefishrestaurant.com.
- Blushing Northern California peaches are transformed into juicy, lightly sweetened peach pie at Mission Pie, a neighborhood gathering spot in San Francisco. The pies include flour from a local heritage wheat called Sonora. 2901 Mission St., (415) 282-1500, missionpie.com.
- At Pie in Seattle’s Fremont neighborhood, Washington Fuji and Granny Smith apples meld in a pie topped with cinnamon sugar. Single-portion “handheld pies” are served from a walk-up window until 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. 3515 Fremont Ave. N., Ste. B, (206) 436-8590, sweetandsavorypie.com.
- In Sandpoint, Idaho, the Pie Hut’s flaky hand-rolled pie crusts surround freshly picked wild mountain huckleberries. 502 Church St., (208) 265-2208.
- The deservedly famous BlackBarb pie at Talkeetna Roadhouse in Talkeetna, Alaska, merges blackberries and rhubarb in a streusel crust laced with nutmeg and coconut. 13550 E. Main St., (907) 733-1351, talkeetnaroadhouse.com.
Photography by Don Frank
This article was first published in September 2011. Some facts may have aged gracelessly. Please call ahead to verify information.