Sausage Goes Gourmet

California sausage makers have joined the artisan food movement.

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Sausage makers around the West have joined the artisan food movement, embracing exotic ingredients and old-world methods. Amid the offerings from San Francisco's Fatted Calf Charcuterie (www.fattedcalf.com) are duck crépinettes—meat patties seasoned with picholine green olives.

The movement has its superstar, namely Paul Bertolli, the chef who left Oakland's Oliveto restaurant to craft his own Fra' Mani brand cured meats, or salumi (www.framani.com).

He's just one of many upstarts. "Our sausages come from lamb or pork shoulder—no scraps," says John Gorham of Portland's Viande Meats & Sausage (www.simpaticacatering.com). "You can watch us make them, seven days a week, right behind our counter."

Although Bruce Aidells and others have made upscale links for years, the trend is spreading. In Sandy, Utah, Colosimo's (www.colosimosausage.com) offers 30 styles. "We want to be the microbrew of sausage," says owner Paul Colosimo. Here are more choices.

4TH AVENUE MEAT MARKET Billings, Mont. Buffalo and elk kielbasa. (406) 252-5686, www.4thavemeat.com.

CAFÉ ROUGE MEAT MARKET Berkeley, Calif. Lamb crépinettes, boudin blanc, garlic. www.caferouge.net.

COLOSIMO'S SAUSAGE Sandy, Utah. Calabrese, whiskey-fennel. (801) 565-1265, www.colosimosausage.com.

DUANE'S SAUSAGE AND SPECIALTIES Butte, Mont. Sicilian, buffalo breakfast. (406) 782-3030.

MORANT'S OLD-FASHIONED SAUSAGE KITCHEN Sacramento. Chorizo, Chicago Polish. (916) 731-4377.

OTTO'S SAUSAGE KITCHEN Portland. Cajun andouille, bockwurst. (503) 771-6714, www.ottossausage.com.

SALUMI ARTISAN CURED MEATS Seattle. Smoked paprika, lamb prosciutto. (877) 223-0813, www.salumicuredmeats.com.

VIANDE MEATS & SAUSAGE Portland. Boudin blanc, chicken-fig. (503) 221-3012, www.simpaticacatering.com.

VILLA BASQUE DELI Carson City, Nev. Basque-style chorizo. (775) 884-4451.

WILLOW GLEN MEATS & SMOKEHOUSE San Jose. Fresh basil, Italian with provolone, German beerwurst. www.willowglenmeats.com.

WOLFSEN'S MEAT & SAUSAGE Gustine, Calif. Cherry bratwurst, spicy smoked Hawaiian. www.wolfsensausage.com.

Photography by Lori Eanes

This article was first published in November 2006. Some facts may have aged gracelessly. Please call ahead to verify information.

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