Trains in the West

Ride the rails on 11 of the West's favorite routes.

Mount Hood Railroad with Mount Hood in background, image

The century-old railroad journeys home to Hood River, its namesake peak rising behind it.

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Four ceremonial spikes, two of them gold, dropped into a wooden tie in Promontory, Utah. Then a hammer struck an ordinary iron spike, setting off cannons in New York City and all the fire bells in San Francisco. Completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1869, and the spread of other rail lines around the United States, transformed the nation. Trains changed how and why we travel, what we buy, where we live—who, in fact, we are.

Rails linked the coasts, connecting states that had at times been united in name only. By 1870, a trip from Omaha, Neb., to Sacramento that once required several months in a covered wagon could be made behind a steam engine in just four days. Trains both transported fortunes and created them.When the train arrived, progress had pulled in.

Though cars and airplanes usurped the reign of trains, railways retain their hold on the imagination. Only a grouch has no affection for a train. Compelling rides still abound: passenger routes geared to long-distance commuting, tourist rails that travel through postcard landscapes, entertainment-focused excursions for which the destination is not the point. The trips that follow are a sample of that bounty, ranging from the country’s iconic rides to beloved local jaunts. Each shows a different side of train mystique—that allure in the soulful sound of a locomotive’s whistle or in the sight of an old engine, chest puffed, tossing steam over its shoulder as its conductor calls out, “All aboard!”

Coast Starlight
Los Angeles–Portland
Reasons to choose this overnight train rather than a plane hop are as varied as its passengers. “No security lines!” an older gent declares as the train departs Los Angeles. A young mother nods, relieved that her kids can move around. In another car, a rail buff shares his enthusiasm with a commuter tired of traffic. The Coast Starlight lives up to both halves of its billing: You can gape at the Pacific or gaze at the night sky from the observation car. The ride provides hours of great sights, among them the horseshoe turn near San Luis Obispo, Calif., during which the engine looks down upon the last car, and a Cascade Range stretch where you pass a waterfall unreachable by auto. But what lingers most is a sense of relaxation. It’s dark when you arrive in Oakland, onetime terminus of the transcontinental railroad. You pull down your bunk and let the rhythm of the rails rock you to sleep. In the morning, you’ll awake to the green of Oregon. From $88 for AAA members, $49 for children 2–15; $202 extra for a sleeper car. (800) 872-7245, amtrak.com/deals.

California Zephyr
Salt Lake City, Utah–Emeryville, Calif.
Alo
ng the Great Salt Lake, the tracks parallel I-80, an asphalt alternative that hardly rivals the pleasures of the rail. Among the upsides of not driving: comfy sleeping cars and a Sightseer Lounge with picture windows. Rest up at night, because the Zephyr rumbles through the finest scenery by day, including the Humboldt River Valley in Nevada and the pine-mantled Sierra. On its curling path over the Donner Pass, the diesel engine seems to slow, as if in deference to that doomed long-ago party. An auto could get you up and over faster. But the magic of this 17-hour overnight journey is that it leads you through the past even as it propels you forward. From $62 for AAA members, $35 for children 2–15; $104 extra for a sleeper car. (800) 872-7245, amtrak.com/deals.

Empire Builder
Portland, Ore.–West Glacier, Mont.
To ride this overnight passenger train, which takes 141/2 hours in one direction as it follows major portions of the Lewis and Clark trail, is to experience the railroad as a form of time travel. The list of landmarks it passes reads like excerpts from the famed explorers’ log. About 60 miles east of Portland rises Beacon Rock, an oversize outcrop in the Columbia River Gorge that Lewis and Clark christened in the early 1800s. Farther on is Wishram, Wash., where the pair gaped at abundant salmon fishing grounds and helped arrange a trade parley between the Wishram and Nez Perce Indians. Much of the landscape consists of untamed plains, as it did when railroad tycoon James J. Hill, the “empire builder,” ran the operation. The ride builds in drama as you move east. The Sightseer Lounge is an ideal viewing platform for Montana’s sapphire lakes and craggy mountains. Poor Lewis and Clark missed them: Their party split and went its separate ways 120 miles short of this magical backdrop, which today’s travelers know as Glacier National Park. From $81 for AAA members, $45 for children 2–15; $94 extra for a sleeper car. (800) 872-7245, amtrak.com/deals.

The Skunk Train
Fort Bragg–Willits, Calif.
When it appeared 125 years ago, this railroad was known as the California Western. Odoriferous gasoline engines, which came into service four decades later, helped inspire a more distinctive sobriquet. Today, the Skunk Train draws on steam or diesel power (depending on the day and the season), and the rides— some just two hours each way—are nothing to sniff at. Restored passenger cars and a freshly painted depot have brought new shine to timeworn facilities; an added snack car stocks local microbrews and wines. Riders can sightsee from an open-air observation car as the train follows the route of an old logging railroad through aspens, oaks, and ancient redwoods. The towering trees, some centuries older than the oldest railway, offer a lesson in perspective, while a ride in the cab, available by reservation for an extra $53, affords a look at an engine’s control room. Regardless of your vantage point, you’ll soon be enveloped by clean-scented forest. From $47, $22 for children 2–12. (866) 457-5865, skunktrain.com.

Grand Canyon Railway
Williams, Ariz.–Grand Canyon National Park
Built to transport gold ore from nearby mines, the original Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway proved more lucrative when transporting tourists towards the rim of the Grand Canyon, named a national park 18 years after the train began running. For seven decades trains made the 65-mile trip from the town of Williams to the South Rim, until the rise of the automobile led to the line’s shutdown in 1968. In 1989 the Grand Canyon Railway reopened with restored steam engines, antique railway cars, and historic depots. Today the ride, two-plus hours each way, takes passengers through landscapes as varied as Ponderosa pine forests, where they might see elk, mountain lions, and deer; and high desert, where pronghorn sheep, bald eagles, and California condors are not uncommon. (The steam engines, retired in 2008 for environmental reasons, were revived to travel an eight-mile round-trip route only on major holidays, powered by filtered recycled cooking oil and reclaimed snowmelt.) In the winter the company runs the Polar Express with reconditioned Pullman Coach cars, ferrying wide-eyed, pajama-clad children through a re-created “North Pole” complete with cookies, hot chocolate, and a visit from Santa. thetrain.com. From $63 for AAA members, $36 for children 2–15. AAA Travel offers numerous rail packages, including trips on the Grand Canyon Railway.

Rocky Mountaineer
Vancouver, B.C.–Calgary, Alberta
Uniting all of Canada by rail required impressive acts of engineering. But it’s the views that mark your memory on the two-day, one-night First Passage to the West trip, which follows the route that first connected British Columbia to the rest of the country in 1885. On the trip to Banff National Park (hitting its 125th anniversary this year), the Canadian Rockies—serene, serrated, snowcapped—loom large over a landscape of calm lakes and frothing rivers, where pine-forested ground seems to go on without end . . . until the terrain rises and the earth turns arid, as if the diesel train were now a moon rover. The Mountaineer’s RedLeaf Service isn’t shabby either, with reclining chairs and meals brought to your seat. (More expensive GoldLeaf Service includes three-course meals and access to a glassdomed observation car.) Take-your-breath-away moments abound—as when the line passes the rushing waters of Hell’s Gate, the narrowest point on the Fraser River, and glides through western Canada’s renowned Spiral Tunnels, looping mountain passages that engineers dreamed up when nature offered no easier way. From $709 for RedLeaf Service, $1,379 for GoldLeaf. (877) 460-3200, rockymountaineer.com.

Mount Hood Railroad
Hood River–Parkdale, Ore.
Like pioneers of the covered wagon era, riders on this line’s Parkdale Excursion Train make their way through the Columbia River Gorge and along the Hood River, albeit with a few more modern comforts. One major amenity on the four-hour round-trip: an air-conditioned dome car ($10 extra) with skylights and picture windows for unimpeded views. The scenery is an eyeful from the outset, as the diesel engine rolls from the mouth of Hood River through pear orchards and pine forests en route to its turnaround at the base of Mount Hood. During the stopover, which lasts roughly an hour, you’ve got time for an ice cream at an old-fashioned parlor, a pint at a brewpub, or a cappuccino at a café. At the produce market, pick up the fixings for a picnic—a rustic style of dining well-known to early explorers. From $30, $18 for children 2–12. (800) 872-4661, mthoodrr.com.

Virginia & Truckee Railroad
Virginia City–Carson City, Nev.
For all the romance we attribute to early railways, most were mercenary ventures, engines of economic growth. Consider this steel link in the eastern Sierra Nevada range, a Gold Rush–era railroad built to ferry fortunes in silver and gold from the Comstock Lode. At its most robust during the 1870s, the V&T was known as the wealthiest short line in the world. It spurred development across Nevada and turned its shareholders into titans who routinely netted more than $100,000 a month. But by the 1920s, a highway had become the people’s choice for transportation; in the ’30s, competition from trucking dealt the line an even more serious blow. In 1950 the V&T died—and remained a ghost rail until 1976, when it returned to life as a tourist train. Along its winding, three-hour round-trip route, riders frequently see mustangs roaming the folds of the Nevada foothills. Memories of the Gold Rush literally surround passengers as the diesel or steam train (take your pick) chugs through a pair of tunnels dug mostly by hand, with picks and shovels, by Chinese laborers and some of the same workers who toiled in the mines. From $29, $20 for children 5–12. (775) 847-0380, virginiatruckee.com.

Thunder Mountain Line
Horseshoe Bend–Banks, Idaho
Many mileposts on the Horseshoe Bend Route come with tales of horse wranglers such as the Pickett Corral Gang of the late 1800s, whose members trafficked in fake gold when they weren’t swiping steeds. On the modern three-hour round-trip, travelers are more likely to see white-water rafters on the Payette River and bald eagles gliding on thermals. Crimes are indeed committed on board, but only by actors during staged mystery-theater dinners—just one of the line’s several theme excursions, which include holiday rides and kid-friendly shows. From $27, $17 for children 3–12. (877) 432-7245, thundermountainline.com.

Heber Valley Railroad
Heber City–Vivian Park, Utah
The railway affectionately known as the Heber Creeper gets its moniker from its locomotives’ inching pace. Despite the nickname, on its Provo Canyon Limited route (one of 16 themed trips), the train can outrun the current of the nearby Provo River, which appeared in the Robert Redford movie Jeremiah Johnson. The three-hour round-trip gives you leisure to spot foxes, hawks, and deer in the canyon and anglers in the water, fly casting for trout. Roughly five miles outside Heber City you glide past Soldier Hollow, the cross-country skiing and biathlon venue of the 2002 Winter Olympics, where some athletes approached 20 mph, the top speed of this diesel train. From $25 for AAA members, $15 for children 3–12. (435) 654-5601, hebervalleyrr.org.

Alaska Railroad
Anchorage–Fairbanks, Alaska
During the region’s darkest months, when the temperature plunges and the daylight rushes by, the Aurora Winter Train runs its weekend service, an otherworldly trip through a land transformed. Rivers shiver, their faces partly frozen. Valleys slumber under thick blankets of white. Progress can be slow, as the train, with just three cars pulled by a diesel engine, stops to take on passengers at tiny local stations. It takes 111/2 hours to go one direction. But the traveler’s heart races as the train crosses a steel arch bridge some 300 feet above Hurricane Creek or pulls into Talkeetna station, Mount McKinley rising in the distance. Though the landscape barely stirs, the stillness is deceptive. The engineer may brake, a long way from nowhere, to avoid spooking a herd of caribou or wait for a moose to clear the tracks. From $150, $75 for children 2–11. (800) 544-0552, alaskarailroad.com.

Mt. Rainier Scenic Railroad
Elbe–Mineral, Wash.
Originally used for hauling lumber when its track was laid in 1903, this railroad snaking through the foothills of the Cascade Range was built to meet the demands of its job and its terrain. The trains’ flexible wheels could handle sharp bends, and their slow-churning, powerful engines excelled at lugging heavy loads at low speeds. Steam service has run on these rails longer than anywhere else in the Pacific Northwest. Though the present-day company (which took over the track in 1980) pulls passengers, not product, it travels the same path—one with more curves than straightaways. Along the two-hour roundtrip route, riders enjoy short, steep climbs over fir-blanketed hills, a long bridge crossing over the Nisqually River, and stirring views of Mount Rainier. From the depot in Elbe, a worthwhile 10-minute drive takes you to the maintenance shop, where skilled mechanics ensure that the museum-worthy equipment remains very much alive. From $20, $15 for children ages 4–12. (888) 783-2611,
mrsr.com
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Photography by Aaron B. Hockley

This article was first published in September 2010. Some facts may have aged gracelessly. Please call ahead to verify information.

More Train Fun
From transcontinental giants to tiny model trains, from Oahu beach views to deep ravine scenery in Alaska, these 15 train-centric attractions prove that on rails, somewhere, there’s a ride for everyone.—by Citlali Tolia

California State Railroad Museum
Sacramento

Admire the carefully restored refrigerator car (the kind that made California the farm state) and savor the old-school elegance of Cochiti, the dining car from Santa Fe Railway’s luxury train “Super Chief.” Weekend train excursions along the Sacramento River (running through September) are not to be missed. Starting October 1, head inside the museum for “Requiem for Steam,” a photographic ode to steamers’ heyday. (916) 445-7387, csrmf.org.

Charlie Russell Chew-Choo
Lewistown, Mont.

Prime rib and a holdup? The fearsome Salt Creek Gang (a merry band of outlaw impersonators) is known to come blazing down the hill for a play-acted “robbery” aboard this dinner excursion train. The 56-mile ride takes place most Saturdays through mid-October. An Oktoberfest trip on the 9th offers tastings of local brews and a meal with German flavor. (866) 912-3980, montanacharlierussellchewchoo.com.

Cheyenne Depot Museum
Cheyenne, Wyo.
The restored 1887 train station houses two floors’ worth of exhibits on the city’s ties to railroad history. On the top floor, the Attic Experience lets kids learn about late-19th-century rail travel by playing with paraphernalia used by yesteryear’s travelers. Across the road, the old Union Pacific building houses the Union Pacific Heritage Steam Locomotive Shop upsteam.com, the last Class I repair shop in North America. (307) 632-3905, cheyennedepotmuseum.org.

Eagle Cap Excursion Train
Elgin, Ore.
The landscape you see during this 3½-hour trip hasn’t changed much since 1908, when the route was completed. The region remains inaccessible by car, and mule deer herds still scamper along the route, a mix of pine forest and dramatic open areas. Passengers enjoy lunch as the Grande Ronde River sparkles. (800) 323-7330, eaglecaptrain.com.

Hawaiian Railway Society
Ewa (Oahu), Hawaii
A 90-minute narrated trip passes historic Fort Barrette and the ghost town of Gilbert. At the line’s end, a stop at Kahe Point offers stunning ocean views. On the second Sunday of every month, visitors can ride in the beautifully restored Private Car 64 (“the Ambassador”); after any ride, check out the steam engines and boxcars on display at the open-air museum. (808) 681-5461, hawaiianrailway.com.

Medford Railroad Park
Medford, Ore.
This railroad park is run by five train organizations, which may account for the sheer variety of things visitors can see and do here. Start with a mile-long ride on the park’s famous little steamers, and then take the kids to see Thomas and his friends in one of two model railroads. Walk through cabooses on display, investigate the restoration of the 1925 Willamette steam locomotive (one of only six in existence), and maneuver a real handcar. (541) 944-9176, ci.medford.or.us/page.asp?navid=497.

Nevada Northern Railway
Ely, Nev.
Arguably the best-preserved and most complete steam railroad complex in the nation, the NNR features locomotives running as though they weren’t built a hundred years ago. Faithfully restored engines, such as the rare steam-powered Ghost Train, are regularly scheduled for weekend trips; diesel engines pull theme excursions. A weeklong Railroad Reality Camp teaches the truly devoted how to drive and repair a steam or diesel engine. (866) 407-8326, nnry.com.

Nevada State Railroad Museum
Carson City, Nev.
More than 80 pieces of railroad equipment, including locomotives and train cars, and three volunteer-operated model trains share the limelight at the NSRM. A new model railroad exhibit on Nevada’s 20th-century railroads is under development at the NSRM, while the historic Virginia & Truckee Railroad McKeen Motor Car No. 22, an unusual gasoline-powered passenger car, has regained its 1910 shine. On October 30, visitors can celebrate Nevada Day with a special diesel train ride. At NSRM in Boulder City, guests can sit back in temperature-controlled 1911 Pullman coaches and enjoy a 45-minute ride along the River Mountains Range. (775) 687-6953, museums.nevadaculture.org.

Redwood Valley Railway
Berkeley, Calif.
Hidden in plain sight at the southern tip of Tilden Regional Park (ebparks.org/parks/tilden), a miniature steam engine pulls open-air and enclosed cars along a 15-inch narrow-gauge track. Twelve-minute excursions along the park’s scenic ridge go through a tunnel and redwood groves. The park includes many other attractions, such as a botanical garden, carousel, lake, and picnic facilities. (510) 548-6100, redwoodvalleyrailway.com.

Roaring Camp Railroads
Felton, Calif.
Two routes depart from Roaring Camp: The Redwood Forest Steam Train chugs through redwoods and climbs Bear Mountain, while the Beach Train crosses Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park and travels along the San Lorenzo River Gorge on its way to the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk. The children’s Ghost Train has been  named one of the country’s best family Halloween events. (831) 335-4484, roaringcamp.com.

San Diego Model Railroad Museum
San Diego
With 27,000 square feet of locomotive fun, this institution is one of the largest operated model railroad displays in the world. Among its highlights are the Tehachapi Pass layout, a faithful model of the twisting route that connects Central and Southern California; and the Cabrillo & Southwestern, an imaginary San Diego–Sacramento route that offers a glimpse into how much work goes into building such trainscapes. (619) 696-0199, sdmrm.org.

Travel Town Museum
Los Angeles
After riding a mini-train around the museum, climb aboard a wide-ranging collection of (stationary) locomotives and passenger cars, some built as far back as 1862. The museum houses one-off treasures such as the Little Nugget, a 1937 Victorian-inspired club car decked out in red velvet and gold stars. Across the park, the Griffith Park and Southern Railroad (griffithparktrainrides.com) runs three one-third-scale reproductions of classic 19th- and 20th-century American trains. (323) 662-5874, traveltown.org.

Utah State Railroad Museum and Eccles Rail Center
Ogden, Utah
Located in Ogden’s Union Station, the museum’s exhibits include the Wattis-Dumke Model Railroad, which re-creates the rail topography from the Sierra Nevada to Wyoming, complete with miniature Great Salt Lake and Sierra Nevada. Among the full-size trains are a restored army hospital car, a Postal Mail Storage Car, and the 2002 Winter Olympic Cauldron Car. (801) 393-9886, theunionstation.org.

White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad
Skagway, Alaska
In the midst of the Klondike Gold Rush days, Canada, the United States, and England pooled resources to construct the “railway built of gold.” Open May through September, the route climbs more than 3,000 feet, negotiating hair-raising curves, tunnels, trestles, and steep mountain passes amid a snow-dressed panorama that includes sightings of Bridal Veil Falls and Inspiration Point. (800) 343-7373, wpyr.com.

Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad
Fish Camp, Calif.
For more than 20 years, the Madera Sugar Pine Lumber Company Railroad transported its lumber down from the Sierra Mountains on part of this route. Relive that heyday as the popular Moonlight Special excursion rides out, then returns through darkened woods. Live music, stories of the railroad’s logging past, and a campfire in the canyon infuse the ride with a touch of frontier wonder. (559) 683-7273, ymsprr.com.

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